Water runs through stone channels alongside Ollantaytambo’s narrow cobblestone streets. Look up from almost anywhere in town and you’ll see steep mountains, Inca terraces, or stone storehouses perched high on the hillside. We chose Ollantaytambo for its location in Peru’s Sacred Valley, and by the time we left, I could picture myself living there.
At about 9,160 feet, Ollantaytambo was still high by our standards, but spending our first few nights here gave us time to get used to the elevation before returning to higher-altitude Cusco. With plenty of places to stay and eat, easy access to several Sacred Valley ruins, and a train station right in town for the trip toward Machu Picchu, it was an ideal home base. The people we met were friendly, and we felt extremely comfortable walking around town.
An Inca town you can still walk through
One of the things I loved most about Ollantaytambo was how much of its Inca history you can see just by walking around. The old quarter still follows its Inca-era street plan, with narrow lanes, stone walls, and water channels running beside the cobblestones. On one side of town, broad terraces climb toward the Temple of the Sun. Across the valley, the stone buildings on Pinkuylluna are believed to have been Inca storehouses. You can see both hillsides from town, and there’s a footpath up to Pinkuylluna from the old quarter.
I’d pack shoes with good grip. We enjoy walking, but even a short stroll to dinner meant navigating uneven cobblestones. If uneven surfaces are difficult for you, it’s worth asking your lodging about the route from the road to the entrance and from there to the Plaza de Armas, the town’s main square.
Where we stayed in Ollantaytambo
Apu Lodge is a small bed-and-breakfast at the foot of Pinkuylluna, an easy walk from the Plaza de Armas. It was a peaceful garden oasis tucked behind stone walls. Booking online was straightforward, and the staff were so responsive by email that they connected us with a wonderful local guide before we even set foot in Peru.
Breakfasts were fresh and delicious, coca tea was available throughout the day, and someone who spoke English was available when we needed help. We especially enjoyed meeting José, one of the staff members, and chatting with him about his time exploring the outdoors in the U.S. The lodge was simple, exceptionally clean, and comfortable, and it was exactly what we wanted within our budget.
What we ate
There were plenty of restaurants within walking distance, so we picked places with good reviews and menus that sounded interesting. At our very first meal, we ordered cuy, or guinea pig, a traditional Andean dish. It came out with quite the festive presentation, and to me, it tasted mostly like chicken.
That first dinner was memorable, but what impressed us throughout our stay was how fresh and flavorful the food was. Even on evenings when we’d made no plans and just picked a menu that caught our eye, we ate really well.
We came for the ruins and the easy train connection to Machu Picchu. When I think back on Ollantaytambo, though, I think just as much about the sound of water running beside the cobblestones, the mountains rising above town, and the people who made us feel welcome. I’d happily spend another few days there.
Leave a Reply